92. MASON PEARSON. THE KING OF BRUSHES.

If you only buy one hairbrush, invest in the best brush money can buy, a MASON PEARSON brush. An essential item for any beauty kit, whether you’re a professional hairstylist, make-up artist or novice. Or for anyone who takes pride in his or her crowning glory.

Here’s a quick history lesson about the company.

Mason Pearson is the founder and engineer inventor of the Mason Pearson Brush. In the mid 1860s he worked for the British Steam Brush Works where he learned the trade. He mastered brush making by hand. Later to partner with Raper Pearson Gill to form a small brush making business.

In 1885 he invented the automatic boaring machine to speed the process of making brushes by hand. He became well known for his brush making skills and he won the Silver Medal at the International Inventions Exhibition awards. He also created ‘pneumatic” rubber cushion brush. It took Mason until 1905 to improve his technique and become successful. Most of the brush work is still done by hand and the company remains a family business.

80. MEET LISA MUSCAT

I discovered your work titled Seraphic, which is very beautiful by the way. What was the thinking behind the shoot? And how did you prepare the shoot? Is there a story behind the shoot?

Thank you! Seraphic was influenced by International Catwalk trends and global advertising Campaigns; in particular session stylist Guido Palau. I wanted to create something where the hair “dressing” was “undone” and I wanted to create something pure and almost angelic. I collected a series of advertising campaigns such as Prada, Tom Ford and Burberry and transformed elements that inspired me into my work and my creation.

I see a lot of photo shoots by young hairdressers, your shoot feels like it comes from a certain maturity, who shot them for you and who else contributed to the shoot ?

I worked with a fantastic team on this shoot and we all worked together to clearly execute my concept and ideas, and I think having a great team behind you also helps to achieve the balance you look for in a creative shoot through the hair, styling and photographic work.

The team included:

Makeup: Victoria Baron

Styling: Peta- Marie Rixon

Photographer: Paul Scala

Mentor: Emiliano Vitale

Apprentice of the year is such a wonderful thing. Is this something you have been working towards? When did you decide to chase this particular accolade?

What is actually quite interesting is I always wanted to enter Apprentice of the Year for Hair Expo however it wasn’t long before the deadline for the Australian Hair Fashion Awards closed when I decided to put this shoot together. That’s why it helps to have such a fantastic team working with you, inspiring you, mentoring you but most importantly, encouraging you.

You have trained with some inspirational hairdressers like Richard Mannah, Robert Bava, Denis Langford to name a few, how did that come about? What have you learnt from them?

Yes I had the opportunity to be trained by the 3 of them whilst I was on the Australian F.A.M.E. Team which I was selected for through a competition I entered in 2009. The 3 hairdressers are each incredibly talented and inspiring stylists. Denis Langford spoke to us a good deal about stage presence and communication to your audience, Richard Mannah spoke to us about photo shoots and his experience as a hairdresser and Robert Bava did a cutting work shop with us.

I have found that doing hair for a shoot, and doing hair for fashion show and in the salon means I have to have a completely different approach to hair in these mediums. How do you balance them?

Yes they are extremely different but its nice to have the opportunity to be able to do all three and balance them out. Working on hair for a photo shoot and for a fashion show are both absolute privileges and I am very fortunate to be able to do both. To be creative is about opening your heart and your mind to allow the world to see what it is capable of, so I never say no to anything and always try knew things and get involved in as many opportunities as I can. However salon experience is still extremely important to maintain the balance and help control stress levels! Also our clients are really what inspire fashion and allow us to be creative and try new looks or styles or colours.

What advice would you give to a young hair apprentice who is looking to enter competitions?

Don’t ever give up. Always believe dreams come true. And most importantly believe in yourself even if nobody else does. Work for yourself and do things that make you happy and eventually people will see you shine.

I hear you have just returned from London Fashion Week, can you tell me what you got up to?

Yes it was fantastic! I worked on 5 shows including Pussy Willow, Satoshi Date, Felicity Brown, Louise Grey and Heikki Salonen. Each show was different and and challenging and looks involved braids, knots, accessories, mohawks, buns and a ‘chanel tucked under bob’.

What are your top five hairdressing tools?

Cloud Nine irons, Vs Sassoon Tongs, Sassoon Denman, L’Oreal Professionnel tecni.art Volume Mousse and Mycurl are the 5 key tools l like to have in my kit bag.

When did you have a “hair-epiphany”, or when did you want to become a hairdresser?

I started in a local salon close to home, working Thursday nights, Saturdays and Sundays and I loved it straight away. I didn’t know just how big this amazing world of fashion and style was, however I knew there had to be someone behind it all and knew I wanted to somehow be a part of it.

And how did you get started in the hairdressing business? Did you start at e Salon?

One year into my apprenticeship I moved to é SALON and found an incredible salon, with an amazing mentor in Emiliano Vitale who believes in his staff and wants to help them grow and succeed as stylists. It was at é SALON that I was introduced to photographic work and fashion shows, and my passion continues to grow every day.

How has e Salon helped you get to where you are now?

My time at e SALON has been truly inspiring. They really believe in each member of staff and are committed to helping each stylist whenever they need it. This salon team inspires me everyday and by allows me to wake up everyday come to work, play with hair and do what I love to do!

What are your plans in the future?

Big things I hope! I have some personal goals I would like to achieve yet work-wise I want to be involved in much more photographic work, more fashion shows and all of the above on an international level. My biggest goal is to hopefully have a salon of my own in a few years.

Lisa Muscat at é SALON

029487 80011

shop 7/2 Redleaf Ave Wahroonga, NSW 2076

emiliano@esalon.com.au

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This article was originally written by Jean-Paul Rosette for Style Street.

76. The Humble Bobby Pin

Oh the bobby pin. These little guys are the back-bone to the art and craft of "dressing of the hair". The above photos come from Christian Dior Fall 2009 Ready-To-Wear. But first let's have a quick history lesson.

The "bobby pin" came into wide use as the hairstyle known as the Bob Cut or took hold. This trend gained popularity in the 1920s, and the bobby pins kept the bobbed hair in place. A trademark on the term "bobby pin" was held for some decades by Bob Lépine Corporation of Buffalo, New York. A trademark infringement claim made by Bob Lépine against Procter & Gamble regarding their naming their home permanent product Bobbi was settled in the 1950s by a payment to Bob Lépine by P&G. The term is now in common usage and therefore is no longer a valid trademark. Similarly, the British "kirby grip" is derived from the trademark Kirbigrip, used by a Birmingham manufacturer of such pins, Kirby, Beard & Co. Ltd.

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But have you ever woken up in a strange house, handcuffed to a bed post? Me neither, but if you have, perhaps you should think about this alternative use for the humble bobby pin.

1. The first step in picking handcuffs is to prep a bobby pin. This is done by bending the bobby pin into a 90˚ angle.

2. Remove the plastic tip at the end of the straight section.

3. Next, bend the bobby pin to the left, creating a 90˚ bend about 1cm from the end of the bobby pin. Then bend bobby pin at 90˚ to the right from about .5cm from the end of the bobby pin. This will create a modified “S” shape (see photo).

4. Insert the pick (bobby pin) into the upper cutout of the lock pointed towards the cuff’s direction of travel.

Once the pick has been inserted and is resting under the handcuff housing, add tension and press the pick towards the cuff’s direction of travel.

This motion will recreate the key’s raised area pressing against the locking mechanism and release the cuff. Now quickly exit building and change your phone number and Facebook profile.

68. Confindente.

This post was originally written for Style Street.

1. In historic building known as The Royal Arcade located off the Bourke Street Mall, home to Gog and Magog and up the winding stairs. How did you find the gem of a space?

I found this gorgeous space by being patient and sifting through lots of Melbourne real estate! The right space is paramount to the success of every business and this particular space needed a lot of love. Royal Arcade has a wonderful history and has managed to keep a little quirk about it which I love. Each of my clients comments on how relaxed they feel here at Confidente and that's what I wanted – goal achieved.

2. Melbourne loves a hidden little secret. How have you advertised your salon? Has twitter, facebook and your website helped? And how do you utilizes the Internet for your business?

I advertised initially on a small scale but word of mouth is the ultimate in this business. I did approach a lot of hotels and that really helped me to get on my feet. An online presence in the form of a website is crucial as people utilize the internet more. Twitter has been a lovely surprise as my clients are quite tech savy & I 've definitely had referrals through this medium. As for Facebook, I've chosen not to have a business page – I don't think it's so relevant to the style of business I run.

3. I’m noticing a worldwide trend for boutique, smaller salons, what are your thoughts on this? And what are the advantages for the operator and the client?

The Boutique Salon absolutely has its place! Clients want to feel special, have their time respected, connect with their Hairdresser and feel at home. From an operators perspective you get to utilize products that you believe in, achieve an optimal result as you're not rushing and really get to know your clients. We've create a space in which they can be themselves – communicate freely and not feel that the clock is ticking. Confidente is relaxing as there's no excess noise from lots of hairdryers or people talking over one another. In this environment my attention is 110% on them. A hair appointment becomes a pleasant part of your day and that is critically important.

4.Where have you worked previously?

I've worked at all levels of the industry from huge numbers to boutique and they have all proved challenging. This broad based experience has taught me so much and groomed me to be the hairdresser I am today. 6 years ago I was working for a company of approximately 150 – 200 staff where I was responsible for the training of over 100 hairdresser whilst running salons – yet here I am today focusing on the one client at a time. You have to be open to new experiences to learn new things and continue to build your skills.

5.How long have you been doing hair and when did you have your first hair “epiphany”?

I've been behind the chair for 14years and my hair epiphany was as simple as Hair is my fabric. I was working on a model and started to intertwine her locks with wool and into her costume – it looked sensational and from there I was obsessed! I enjoy making people feel great. I get a great sense of satisfaction from seeing the effect my work has on the clients. The effect is almost immediate. For some it's a smile, for others a transformation in their confidence! I get a kick out of it either way.

6.For readers who want to open a salon for themselves…what advice would you give to the up starters?

The advice I would give to anyone opening their own salon is to make sure it is your passion. It will be lots of hard work and you have to really want it. In particular the one on one salon will only succeed if you have a continued drive to improve yourself and have very strong skills all round. You can't be lazy. Ensure that you are capable of EVERYTHING - Hairdressers used to have strong skills in all areas and this has changed. If you want to succeed on your own it is mandatory.

7.Top five favorite tools (Example: wigo hairdryer, favorite product etc)

I could not live without a Parlux Blowdryer and Pin Curl Clips in my kit. Followed closely by a Linen Thread for gorgeous modern Hair Up, a nice fresh cut throat blade and Kevin Murphy Session Spray.

8. What do you feel are the problems facing the industry right now? (Example; recruitment, money, public opinion et al)

Unfortunately the Hairdressing Industry has been plagued by those who don't take it seriously as a profession. If the people working in the industry don't see it as a profession, how can we expect our clients and industry partners to see us as professionals? The removal of hairdressing from the skills shortage list will (I hope) see the return of serious professionals to the trade..

9. My research tells me you were a ‘rep” for a haircare company, could you tells us more about that? And how did you make the transition from hairdresser to rep and back to salon owner?

When you believe in a product it's a dream position for those that don't like to be surrounded by the same four walls and growing any business is satisfying. Whilst I loved the contact with salon teams and business owners, I missed the creative release that hairdressing provides.

11. What are your plans for the future?

To develop my concept and my skills set further and to offer the highest level of service to my clients that the industry has to offer..

10. What products do you use in the salon?

Ooh where to start?! I colour with Revlon Professional and L'Oreal, I style with Kevin Murphy, American Crew and Everescents. I like to work with various ranges so that I can cater to everyone as I'm very fussy! Everescents is the latest addition to Confidente, they are the ONLY Australian made, Certified Organic professional hair care range on the market. There are a lot of organic claims out there but once you dig deeper you often find that they're not certified or that there is an overseas parent company. I respect Everescents Philosophy, it's a great product and enables me to look after my clients health, the environment and most importantly to support Australian trade.

Confidente Salon.

Confidente Salon website.

email info@confidente.com.au

Confidente on Twitter

Telephone (03) 9663 2082

65. Interview with Annika

1. You and I met and started chatting via Twitter and then Facebook, has the internet helped you and your business? Also What do you use these social networking websites for? And do you have an agent?

I don’t have an agent and it is amazing who you can meet and network with via the internet. Twitter and facebook are just the beginning, they have helped a heap in getting a buzz about into the world. You have to make noise somehow and not everyone is willing to listen to you yelling in the street (most people will think you’re crazy!) I guess its less frightening to people to interact using these kinds of methods. Also its assessable, its less in formal and everyone knows what you’re doing without asking you directly. I use them a lot from booking appointments for clients and getting new jobs for photo shoots. I post as much as I possibly can so people feel connected and can create an opinion of you and your work.

2. I have noticed via your Facebook account that you are involved with lots of fashion parades, how did you get involved with that side of hairdressing?

The salon I worked at did a couple of hairdressing shows and I always helped with them. I also started volunteering to help out backstage at fashions parades while I was still working in the salon. I didn’t really have a day off most weeks. I involved myself as much as I could. Hard work pays off.

3. For me, I have found doing hair for a shoot, and doing hair for fashion show and in the salon means I have to have a completely different approach to hair in these mediums. How do you balance them?

It’s a hard balance that you cant fall behind in… you have to stay on the pulse of things. Continue to learn your trade and constantly evolve. I think still working in a salon keeps me grounded. You’re working with everyday people who want different things from their hair. Sometimes it can me more challenging then fashion hair. Where as photo shoots and fashion shows it’s all about a particular image, it has to be perfect for that one photo or the 10 minutes the model is out on the catwalk. But they do work together at times, generally fashion hair filters through to commercial wearable hairstyles that clients will ask for. I think it takes about 3 to 6 months for the general public to get used to the new ideas in the industry.

4.Where have you worked previously?

I worked part time when I was 15 in a salon in a shopping centre. It’s a really big salon with a retail shop attached, Ross Caia is a franchise of three. I finished high school and started my apprenticeship there. I was there 5 years in total. I wanted to learn more so I moved to a boutique salon in Malvern called Madd. I really learnt a lot there and perfected my trade. I had a very passionate mentor, I have a lot to thank him for. I wouldn’t be the hairdresser I am now without his knowledge. At the end of the day I’m just too eager to succeed.
I now work for myself freelancing under my own name ANNIKA’S, I do clients from their houses, work casually in a salon, do hair and makeup for photo shoots & runway shows. I also do a lot of work for Model Academy, they train young models to prefect their job. This is a term course that goes through everything, its great fun and I find it amazing to watch these students turn into top models.

5.How long have you been doing hair and when did you have your first hair “epiphany”?

Well I have been playing with my own hair my whole life (laughs) but as an actually professional trade… full time seven years and three years part time before that.

First hair epiphany would be..? (thinks) When I was eight I had all my hair cut off into a graduated bob I couldn’t believe the feeling I got when I left the salon, I was in love. I always wanted to be a hairdresser and I wanted to make people feel the way I felt that day. I wanted to give people style, an image to call their own and make them look & feel better about themselves. Hairdressing is very rewarding if you let it.

6.For readers who want to become freelance hairstylists themselves…what advice would you give to the up starters?

Volunteer as much as you possibly can and yes you wont get paid for volunteer work! But that brings a lot of other work, you have to be dedicated and network with people in the area you want to go into. Say it is more photo shoots you want to get into, talk to photographers and get to know them. Backstage Fashion Runways you would get to know designers. Be yourself people like to work with people that they get along with and that are friendly and hardworking.

7.Top five favorite tools

1. Hairdryer – I can’t go past my twin turbo 2600 its my favourite
2. Straightens (I have many but the main ones are GHD and T3)
3. Hairspray – I can be picky, I worked in a tigi salon so love their products, I normally use the S Factor or rockahollic they are both medium hold and not tacky like a lacquer, easy for models to brush out too.
4. S Factor Creamy Molding Wax
5. Bobby pins

I also do love label.m dry shampoo and label.m sea salt spray & my crimpers that are from the 80’s.

8. What do you feel are the problems facing the industry right now?

I think there are a lot of problems with our industry...
I think people don’t realize how hard we work and how little we get paid. The general public is unaware and most don’t think of us “hairdressers” as professional, which is our problem because we make them think that.
Attitude is very important and I think there needs to be more training across the industry. We are creative people and need to be inspired and constantly motivated. I also think the colour company’s should have the same numbering colour system. And don’t get me started on competitions. I could go on and on about ways to improve our industry but I wont…

9. My research tells me you worked in a salon prior to freelance work, could you tells us how did you make the transition from hairdresser in a salon to freelance?

Gosh, I actually asked to go part time and my boss wouldn’t let me so it was a hard decision to make but I knew it was the right one, I quit completely and knew my love and passion would some how support me.

10. Lets talk make up. How did you get involved with that? And which came first hair or make up?

Hair came first. I never really thought I would really get that into makeup but it does work hand in hand, same as fashion. Its all about a look and its has to follow through head to toe. I never really wore that much makeup myself until I started working full time at Madd Hairdressing and I learnt how to apply it. It came fairly naturally, I love colour and did a lot of painting at high school (I think that helps) now that I think about it… it’s kind of surprising I didn’t get into it sooner.

11. What are you working on at the moment?

Just the general stuff as well as setting up a website that will have an online portfolio. I would love to work Internationally. Also planning a working holiday in October, always wanted to go to Salon International.

12. What are your plans for the future?
I would love to have my own salon one day... have a happy balance of salon life and freelancing. I want to inspire others and keep the passion alive and pass on my knowledge to anyone who is willing listen. Annika Bowen pictured with Napolean Perdis.

Annika Bowen pictured with Napolean Perdis.

Annika's Twitter page http://twitter.com/annikabowen

Annika's facebook

*This post was originally written for Style Street by Jean-Paul Rosette

This Charming Man

HAIRSTYLIST PROFILE

SIMON SETTER

Jean-Paul: How are you and where are you?

Simon: Really well sitting on my balcony on a rare sunny morning in London after  just coming back from a week in Istanbul.

JPR: How long have you been in the hairdressing game?

SS: 5yrs as a Thursday night Saturday boy 17 yrs professionally God that's 22yrs altogether! When i started i said I'd  try it out until i got bored! which I'm still not!

JPR: Where have you worked?

SS: Melbourne Australia - Tokyo Japan - New York USA - London UK - Berlin Germany - Milan Italy - Paris France - Havana Cuba and then pretty much where ever else I've travelled.

 JPR: Where did you start and why hairdressing?

 SS:"Feathers Hair"  Donvale, on a Saturday morning so i could get MY hair done . Then "Godfrey and Taylor" , Toorak to meet gay guys and make some cash till i started a sculpture degree. My mum was a hairdresser and i have always loved the sculptural element of it.

 JPR: What are you working on at the moment?

 SS: A Tatler beauty shoot based on the galaxy. A pilot for a new UK/TV show. Paloma Faith and a couple of weddings for the weekend.

JPR:  Top 10 products / tools in your kit and why?

SS:  " Phillip B" products"drop dead straightening baume" for its ease - Jet set hairspray for its beautiful smell and finish - Russian Amber shampoo for it opulence and rejuvenating qualities and his Shin Shine for its brilliant shine. "********" straightening and crimping irons all in one which are amazing. Japanese grips and pins because they are the best for hold and strength - "Fuji"- more Z - 5 1/2 inch scissors for there precision and beauty - Bumble and Bumble dry shampoo for texture -  Masson and Pearson cushion brush for great smoothing ability - Graphite combs for less static - Classic silk boar bristle round brush's for great volume and lift and Lado Pro paddle brush's for strength and control.

http://www.philipb.com

http://www.bumbleandbumble.com

JPR:  What has been your career highlight?

SS:  I have had many opportunities to work in the places and with the people i always wanted to from Beyonce to Vivienne Westwood and to name one highlight is hard. But if pushed I'd have to say becoming friends and working with the genius that was the stylist Isabella Blow  from campaigns for Tattler to Philip Treacy, Mc Queen to Bryan Ferry was always inspirational, amazing, fun and creative .The people she introduced me to are true world leaders of style and fashion.

JPR: What advice would you give a  young hairstylist?

SS:  Research research research know all about the past present and future, different eras and times. Align yourself with a company or stylist you really admire respect and believe in. Work hard but remember to have fun and enjoy it because it really is one of the most rewarding careers in the world.

JPR: How can we get in contact with you?

 SS:  settersimon2000@yahoo.com  or at SMITHS salon 57 Poland street Soho London.

JPR: Future Plans? 

SS: Many, there is talk of moving to LA. And then I've always had a strong passion for Art and I'd love to do something more with it in curating and dealing. Then every time i visit home i get a strong desire to move back and do something.So who knows but what ever happens I'll always be doing  something with hair.......